This is more of a reminder for myself, but I thought I would share it as well. The 21mm Dellorto PHBG has these settings right now:
50 idle jet
60 choke jet
84 main jet
W3 needle with the clip at the top

The bike does not run well. It 4 strokes through the entire throttle range. It almost left me stranded yesterday. I pulled up to a stop sign a couple miles from my house and it died. I got it started, but it would not run. I ended up pulling the air filter off and that allowed it to run enough to get me home. I’m thinking it is rich all over. I ordered a new 38 idle jet from treatland.tv and I think I’ll put a 80 main jet at the same time. Although, my bike is very similar to this with just a slightly smaller carb (20mm) and an 82 main jet and it runs great, so I’m a little hesitant to drop the main jet much more.

It took about 10 kicks and little adjusting of the idle screw on the carb, but it fired up. I’m pretty excited about it.

Here’s the video of idling for the first time. The spill on the floor is from the hercules project, not this one.

Puch Newport – First Start from leftovermopeds.com on Vimeo.

It looks a little sad without a tail light. Anybody have one?

It’s been a long road.

I plan to fire it up tomorrow night. I’ll probably post a video of it running…provided it does run. I’ve changed a lot of things and who knows what I may or may not have done right.

I then welded up the pieces and spent way more time than I should have grinding it down to a more aesthetically pleasing shape.

Ahh…much better. It actually clears the pipe now.

It pedals ok, but you really don’t pedal these unless you absolutely have to, right? I really only quarter kick mine and “pedal” when I’m positioning my feet around turns. The crank could probably used to be straightened a little bit. I’ll leave that for the new owner to decide. He’ll have to take the crank off to paint it anyway. It’s too cold right now to get any paint to adhere.

Here are the new nuts from treats. These things are life savers.

I was able to get the pipe mounted without welding on a new bracket. That made me happy. The trick was tightening the flange nuts enough to hold the pipe in place and then bolting up the rear location. After that I tightened the flange nuts the rest of the way.

I think ideally you should be able to tighten up the flange nuts all the way first and then the rear hole should just line up, but it never seems to work that way. You end up having to push the pipe one way or another and that is what creates leaks at the flange. I went with 2 gaskets this time to help prevent that. I know that I’ve been blowing out the single gasket quite often on my own bike. We’ll see how the double setup works out on this one.

The smaller end needs to be cut off because the cable is too long to go on this handlebar setup. Once you cut it off, you need to make a new end that fits through all the holes in the carb, but not through the final hole in the throttle slide. That means it really has to be pretty close to the diameter of the factory end.

To make the new end I used the inside or clamping part of a ring connector.

It worked out well. It took me a little while to shape it with my crimpers and side cutters, but it didn’t take very long. I put the end on the cable 2 inches from the end of the casing. That gave me just about the right spacing to slide.

You can solder an end on there, but I didn’t have much luck getting the right shape the last time I tried…AND when I was finished it ended up pulling off inside the carb. That wasn’t cool. I will admit though that my soldering skills are a little on the weak side.

All of the cables are now finished. I’m pretty excited about that. They all feel pretty good too.

After finishing that up, I moved on to the crank. I pulled it off the bike, which wasn’t fun, but I eventually got it with a little bit of elbow grease and some PB Blaster.

I then cut off the crank arm just below the hole for the wedge shaped pin.

I measured the extension I need at 1-1/4″. I hope to find the material tomorrow and get it welded up soon. It may be a few more days before I throw up another update.

I thought I could make a spacer to put the nut in a location where I could get a good angle on it. I even stopped at the hardware store and bought a few parts, but I realized when I got home that it wouldn’t work. The engine studs just aren’t long enough. I searched for coupling nuts from McMaster-Carr, but they wanted about $9 for them by the time I shipped them here. Treats has basically the same thing, so I figured I would support him. More waiting on parts…I love it.

Ok, enough of that. Here’s the good stuff. I received a new chain, intake, 21mm carb, and spark plug cap.

I started with the chain thinking that would be pretty easy. I should have known that it wouldn’t mount up as easy as I thought. I had to shorten it by about 10 links or so and I don’t have any chain tools. I ended up having to improvise with my angle grinder, a spare master link, a socket, and my vice. That took me a little while, but I eventually got it.

At least I knew what I was up against with the intake and carb. Here is what the intake looks like when you get it.

I ground down both sides to the parting line. This allows enough of the engine stud to stick out to get the nuts tightened down while still leaving some threads exposed. I wonder what this intake is actually meant for?

The carb came with a 100 jet. I changed it out for a 90. That should be a good starting point and should have it running rich during break-in.

Check out how tight the clearances are on this setup.

I haven’t experience any ill effects by running my carb at a slight angle. I don’t foresee anything different happening here.

Tomorrow I’ll probably run the new throttle cable and pull the crank off in preparation for welding. Stay tuned for more pictures and complaints.

Here’s the Homoet 6p. It’s a pretty sweet pipe and it has much cleaner lines than my Estoril. I almost had to work out a trade deal with the owner of this bike…my Estoril for this pipe…but I decided he would be happier with this setup.

I’ve been looking forward to getting this thing put on the bike, but I don’t know why. Fitting pipes on these bikes usually isn’t fun. The nuts that hold the header in place are always a nightmare and the rear mounting hole never lines up.

It’s off far enough that I can’t just slot both holes larger and make them line up. I need to weld a new bracket on it. Also, the pedal doesn’t clear. Well, it does for about 3/4 of the rotation, but I want someone to be able to pedal this bike and not have to think about where their feet are. I’ll need to weld up an extended crank similar to the one I did on mine to clear the Estoril.

Damn.

I smoothed out the chrome fender hangers with an angle grinder.

I then smoothed out the fender where the vertical mountes meet the fender itself.

After I got that to a point where I was happy with it, I finished the front brake cable and finished wiring the kill switch. I really don’t have much more to go. If the rest of the parts get here on time, I should have this project wrapped up by this weekend or possibly next. The owner needs to start making plans to come get this thing.

It’s nice to be able to move the bike around the shop as a roller now. It’ll be even better when I get the handlebars on.

At first glimpse, the tires may rub the fender hanger brackets similar to how my 2.25 Gazelles do. I won’t know for sure until I get the rest of the triple tree back together.

Other things I accomplished this evening:
Put on the pedal chain
Put on the drive chain
Confirmed it needs a new drive chain
Put the spring on the center stand
Stripped all the paint off of the new triple tree top plate

I hope to get the handlebars on tomorrow.